Methods Used in Product Development & Claims Substantiation to Measure the Performance of Hair Styling Ingredients
Speaker Bio
Abstract: Roger has over 25 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is a Principal Scientist at Ashland, Inc. and leads their Material Science team. Roger has over 40 publications in peer-reviewed journals and textbooks. He is also the author of Antioxidants and the Skin, 2nd edition. In addition, Roger is the 2023 recipient of the SCC’s prestigious Maison G. de Navarre award.
Roger received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry from Seton Hall University. Roger is an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry.
Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48). He is fluent in Spanish and Catalan.
Abstract
Hair styling represents a major consumer product category that has expanded significantly over the past two decades to include gels, mousses, hairsprays (aerosol and pump), clays, putties, setting lotions, pomades, waxes, and related formats. The performance of hair styling ingredients is governed by a complex interplay between ingredient chemistry, formulation architecture, hair fiber properties, and environmental conditions. As a result, robust product development and claims substantiation rely on a multi-modal measurement strategy that integrates fundamental material characterization with consumer-relevant performance assessment.
This presentation will review experimental approaches developed in our laboratory used to evaluate hair styling ingredients, including Dynamic Hairspray Analysis (DHSA), three-point cantilever bending, and dynamic mechanical analysis (DMA). These techniques enable quantitative assessment of the mechanical behavior of the product–hair fiber assembly under applied stress and environmental insult, with particular emphasis on high-humidity conditions. In addition, the relationship between mechanical fracture of styling films and the resulting acoustic response of the treated hair fiber assembly will be explored as an emerging tool for differentiating styling performance.
Beyond mechanical properties, visual and aesthetic attributes are critical determinants of perceived styling efficacy. Accordingly, this presentation will also address techniques used to assess optical properties such as hair luster, as well as methods for evaluating hair volume, body, fiber alignment, and flaking associated with styling treatments. Approaches applicable to both straight and textured hair types will be discussed, highlighting the importance of aligning instrumental measurements with real-world appearance and performance claims.