Effect of Current Trends on Future Preservation Strategies in Cosmetic Products
Andress Johnson
Technical Manager of Personal Care and Household Applications
THOR Specialties, Inc.
Speaker Bio: Andress Johnson is the Technical Manager for Personal Care and Household applications at THOR Specialties, Inc., the U.S. subsidiary of the THOR Group, a global leader in biocides and personal care ingredients. She works closely with customers to deliver practical, science‑based solutions that balance performance, regulatory, and sustainability needs.
With nearly 20 years of experience in consumer product applications, Andress has held senior technical roles at CIBA, BASF, and Akzo Nobel, supporting product development, customer innovation, and market‑driven solutions.
She holds a PhD in Wood Science from the University of British Columbia, specializing in preservation. Her research focused on quaternary ammonium compounds, a foundation that continues to inform her work today.
Andress is a frequent technical presenter and the author of multiple publications and patents. She is known for translating complex chemistry into clear, actionable insights.
She is active in several industry organizations, including PCPC, HCPA, and SCC. She has served as Chair of the PCPC Microbiology Committee and is an active contributor to preservative, antimicrobial, regulatory, and training initiatives across the industry.
Abstract: As the cosmetic preservative toolbox continues to shrink under increasing regulatory scrutiny, NGO influence, brand positioning, and consumer-driven “clean” expectations, formulators are under growing pressure to design robust, future-proof preservation systems with fewer conventional options.
This presentation explores current preservation trends and the formulation challenges they introduce, with a focus on how to maintain microbiological robustness in modern cosmetic products.
Key trends impacting preservation strategy include:
Simpler formulations with fewer ingredients
Mineral-based sunscreens
Readily biodegradable ingredients
“Natural” and “clean-label” positioning
Increased reliance on organic acids
Multi-functional ingredients used for secondary preservation with clear formulation benefits.
While these approaches align with sustainability and consumer perception goals, they often reduce formulation tolerance and narrow antimicrobial coverage.
Compounding these challenges is the increasing prevalence of environmental isolates, such as the Burkholderia cepacia complex (BCC) and Pluralibacter gergoviae—notorious contaminants capable of surviving in poorly preserved, low-nutrient, and mildly acidic formulations. These organisms present a significant risk in modern cosmetic systems, particularly those relying on reduced preservative levels, low water activity, or “self-preserving” claims.
This session will examine how current trends influence preservative selection, the formulation trade-offs they create, and practical strategies for building robust, resilient preservation systems capable of withstanding both regulatory pressure and emerging microbiological threats.